Best Exercises for Climbing: Train Smarter, Climb Stronger

By: Abbie Chipps 

For any climber, whether you just got a membership for Christmas or have been a gym regular for years, off the wall training can be just as important as on the wall. In this post we will explore just a few basic exercises you can incorporate into your routine and how you can modify them to best support your climbing needs and goals. 

We will be focusing on two main categories: training types, which include strength, flexibility and injury prevention, and muscle groups, core, upper and lower body. Approaching cross-training with intention and understanding the purpose of different exercises and how they apply to climbing is the first step towards making it a part of your climbing routine. 

Lunges, Targets: Strength/Flexibility/Lower Body 

Our lower body is one of the most overlooked muscle groups when it comes to climbing. Newer climbers may only focus on their shoulders and arms, but placing more weight into your legs will help you climb longer and stronger. Having strong and mobile legs is the most important part of that equation and lunges are the perfect all-in-one exercise for targeting your legs in climbing.

Start with your feet hips width apart and place one leg in front of you like you are taking a big forward step. Keep a slight bend in your back leg and make sure your front knee is not extending past your ankle. You can hang out in this position for a deeper stretch or repeat in sets of 10 for more anaerobic training. It’s common for one leg to feel stronger or more stable but don’t forget to repeat on both legs to develop the muscles evenly. To utilize lunges for strength training incorporate weights into the mix with either two dumbbells in each hand or by holding a kettle bell at chest height. 

Pistol Squats, Targets: Strength/Lower Body

Pistol squats, or one leg squats, are especially helpful for climbing moves where one foot is particularly high or one only one foot hold is available. 

Before trying full pistol squats it’s important to identify how flexible your achilles are. Start by widening your stance and getting into the deepest squat you can. If the heels of your feet can remain flat on the floor then this is what you’ll aim for in the pistol squat. If your heels are pulled up at the deepest point for your squat you may have a shorter achilles and may consider finding a small lip to put under your heel for extra support. 

For the squat itself there are a few variations to consider. The classic version is to extend one leg straight in front of you at a 90 degree angle. If able, lightly grab your toes and go down to the deepest point of your squat without letting your foot or butt hit the floor. Once at the bottom of your squat it’s time to push hard on your grounded leg until you  reach a standing position again. 

If fully extending your leg is a struggle, modify the squat by pulling your leg back into a quad stretch with a bent knee. From this position lower down until the tip of your non-grounded knee reaches the ground. As most of us are right handed or left handed, we also tend to have a dominant leg. One leg may be more flexible while one may be stronger. It’s important to identify these differences and pick which variations of the squat work best for each leg. 

Shoulder Rotations, Targets: Injury Prevention/Flexibility/Upper Body 

Shoulder flexibility is an important aspect of climbing that is often overlooked in other sports. For newer to intermediate climbers cultivating this flexibility is imperative for progress on the wall and overall protection of the joints and muscles that make up our shoulder. 

In your gym’s fitness area find a long bar or staff where you can get a wide grip. Starting with your hands just past shoulder width apart and place the bar at your waist. Slowly pass your right hand over your head until the bar is parallel across your back and hips, then continue the circle by passing your left hand in the same direction. Keep a slight bend in your elbow while doing this stretch to avoid overextension and move your hands further apart for a deeper stretch or closer together for a shallower one. Don’t forget to switch directions to open up both shoulders evenly. 

Wrist Extensions w/ weight, Target: Injury Prevention/Upper Body 

With climbing cross training it’s important to not overlook your wrists and hands and give them just as much attention as other muscle groups. Keeping the tendons in your hands healthy is the best way to allow a long and consistent climbing routine. 

Take a light dumbbell, start with the lowest weight available, in each hand. From there you can work through a series of wrist movements, rotating inwards, outwards, up, down, and side to side. When starting these exercises it’s best to practice without any weights and slowly incorporate that into your routine. The goal is light resistance, not exhausting strain. 

Pull ups, Target: Strength/Upper Body/Core

For climbing, a pull-up rather than a chin-up is going to be our preferred training standard. A pull-up, which calls for hands facing away from us on the bar, is going to target our shoulders, chest, and back. Chin-ups, with hands facing inwards, target your biceps more directly which, while it can be beneficial, isn’t as beneficial for the full body workout of climbing. 

If pull-ups seem scary or maybe you can only do one at a time, try scapular pull-ups first. Start in a dead hang and practice pulling up from your shoulders and back only, almost like you are adjusting your posture. While the movement is small, practicing good pull-up form is going to be better for upper body development and more closely mimics the muscle groups we use in climbing. To move from scapular pull-ups to full ones, wrap a resistance band around the bar and use either your knee or foot to press against it and feel the full pull-up motion. 

If pull-ups are starting to feel like a breeze, incorporate a little resistance training by adding some weight. Using a harness, strap and plats from the lifting area of the gym to slowly add weight to your pull up routine. 

Deadhangs, Target: Injury Prevention/Core/Upper Body 

A simple and effective exercise for cross training or a warmup, the deadhang focuses on strengthening static muscles in your core and shoulders. These can be done on either a standing bar or a hangboard, however while using a hangboard find the largest and most comfortable edge possible. 

The actual exercise is to literally just hang out. Similar to scapular pull-ups, for a dead hang be sure to keep your shoulders and back muscles engaged rather than sinking down into your armpits. Attempting to keep swinging to a minimum, which you may be surprised makes for a good core workout. 

Hanging V-ups, Target: Strength/Upper Body/Core

The more dynamic cousin of the deadhang, the v-up adds a layer of movement to help you practice foot recovery needed in overhung climbing. Starting in a deadhang position bring your toes up to meet your fingers on the bar, then slowly lower your legs back down. Don’t forget to avoid swinging! 

If a full v-up seems initially out of reach, start by bringing your knees up to your chest and repeat as needed, almost mimicking a crunching motion. Hanging core overall is a great addition to any climbers routine as it helps simultaneously strengthen the abdominals while keeping the upper body working, just like we do on the wall! 

Utilize your Fitness Area 

The short answer to climbing harder will always be to climb more, but incorporating a basic off-the-wall fitness routine is the foundation of anyone looking to make climbing a part of their life. Cross training can be the key to maintaining overall fitness and preventing injury to keep you climbing stronger and longer. All equipment mentioned above can be found in any fitness area and at any Bouldering Project location so don’t forget to stop in during your next climbing session.